Donne Biriyani To Ragi Mudde At Bangalore's Thriving Military Hotels

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Do the thoughts of fried bheja (brain), kaleji (liver), and paya (trotter) send your taste buds into a frenzy? Then, the city’s many military hotels (a Bengaluru  institution actually) will please you with their carnivorous menu. Military hotels, aimed to provide non-vegetarian food to soldiers back in the day, have a long history in the city and are known to be small, decrepit places serving largely meat dishes of a surprising array. Service starts as early as the crack of dawn and no one sitting at the tables here thinks twice of diving into a plate of Kaal soup (leg soup) and biryani first thing in the morning. We take you on a guided tour of a dining tradition that is now part of Bengaluru’s culinary history.

Ranganna Military Hotel

With over a 60-year history and closely guarded recipes, Ranganna Military Hotel is where you should begin your initiation into military mess food. The Kheema Ball Curry and Thale Mamsa (head meat) Fry are just some of what you want to start with. End with a Mutton Biriyani (a biryani that is more like a pulao) that will seal the deal of happiness. Of course, the tiny steel glasses of steaming rasam that round up every meal are a must. An insider secret — Ranganna handpicks every piece of meat and all the masalas are ground fresh every day. 

Must Try: Liver Masala, Keema Fry

New Govind Rao Military Hotel

You have fans, you have tables and chairs and you have heaps and heaps of biryani. Dig in. Food here is served on patris (you can even opt for a red plate), dried leaves stitched together to form a plate. You can get your breakfast fix as early as 6am and make sure that it begins with idlis and kheema curry and is followed up with Mutton Biryani. All of the meat fries here are strong on the chilli or pepper factor. 

Must Try: Mutton Keema Balls, Chicken Biriyani

NV Naidu Hotel

If you had a tiring day at City Market or just in general, get your dose of energy from their Chicken Fry and Mutton Biriyani. Narrow stone benches and tables allow only two people to sit together here. When the plate of palav (as they call it) hits your table, the pepper aroma alone can make you go weak in the knees. The top pick for military hotel biriyanis, this is one place you don’t want to miss. 

Must Try: Mutton Biriyani and Chicken Fry

SGS Nonveg Gundu Palav (Balepet)

Many a happy soul makes a hearty breakfast of the Chicken Donne Palav that is served here. The crowds are something to look out for but if you are good with a little jostling around, you will get by. The biryani is served in donnes (leaf bowls) shaped to look like little boats. You get your biryani with a little gravy and some pachadi (raita) on the side. Haul your loot up to the first floor where you can choose to stand, squat, sit or fight it out for the long bench. Make sure to carry along a thirst quencher as the biryani is spicy here. Add on to the tasty wounds of your taste buds with the SGS Chicken Kshatriya

Must Try: Chicken Donne Palav and Chicken Kshatriya

Gowdru Hotel

The Mutton Curry and Ragi Mudde are the top orders here, followed by the Bheja Fry. The Boti Masala, as well as the Head Meat Fry score high on the popularity charts as well. Gowdru is known for its ability to churn out the best dishes made up of some delicious spare parts. However, if you prefer the cleaner cuts of meat, try their Gowdru Special Chicken Masala. 

Must Try: Ragi Mudde Oota, Head Meat Fry

Rajanna Military Hotel

Commandeered by the late owner’s wife, Rajanna Military hotel is like a well-oiled machine. Once you are served, the delicious Mutton Korma, Ragi Mudde and kheema will hardly have you looking up from your plate. No matter which strata of society you are from, the great food here is a perfect leveller. The tables are clean and the place is hygienic.

Must Try: Mutton Korma and Ragi Mudde 

Chandus Delux

When the first plate of chapathi and spicy Mutton Chops curry hits your table, everything will seem much brighter. The Bheja Pepper Fry gives you a mélange of textures and flavours — soft, slightly crisp, hot and spicy. Boti Fry, Nalli Masala and Chicken Fry are other must-try dishes here. The menu here is more elaborate compared to other military restaurants and the seating is laid out well. 

Must Try: Boti Fry and Nalli Masala

Shivaji Military Hotel

A name that has managed to build a huge recall factor for itself. Timing is the key to getting a seat and a donne of biriyani here in this legendary outlet. If you do make it at peak time, fret not, you'll be made to wait besides occupied chairs or in a line in the waiting section. Besides the biryani that is made in batches to cater to hungry hordes, the Natti Chicken Biryani makes an appearance every Thursday. Couple your biryanis up with Chicken Fry and the Mutton Chop. Service is brusque and plates are laid with rasam and pachadi served in quick succession. Be ready to have people stare you down while you eat, waiting to slip into your seat as soon as you give them an inch.

Must Try: Mutton Donne Biryani, Chicken Fry, Mutton Chops

Sangam Military Hotel

Cheapest of the lot yet wonderfuly tasty, Sangam Military Hotel is where you ought to head if you're broke, hungry and if you want something tasty (which is almost always). Make your way here and you'll get a portion of Chicken Biryani for INR 85!  Apart from the usual chicken and mutton dishes, there is Boti, Thale Mamsa and Bheja Fry to be had here as well. Sundays see the restaurant dishing out Kaal soup (paya or trotter soup) with Thatte Idli, and Kaima Gojju

Must Try: Kaima Gojju and Chicken Biriyani

Shrinidhi Hindu Military Hotel

The menu here is elaborate but their offerings are rather small each day, with limited meat dishes and the quintessential biryanis. On most days, you may find the gravies suspiciously the same, but if you are in the area and want to tick off a name from the list, this place can make for a satisfactory lunch. No thrills and frills here. 

Must Try: Chicken Pepper Dry and Boti Masala