Navigate through Saligao’s narrow village lanes and protective doggos and you’ll find Bate Papo. There’s no noise or loud signages to take you here and we like that this homestay-meets-cafe-meets-store is hidden in plain sight.
Artworks purposefully chosen and sourced, books picked up from the weekly Saligao market, homemade chocolate liqueur made by a friendly neighbour and the sound of the podder in the evenings… If this doesn’t sound like the most idyllic hideaway, we don’t know what does.
Bate Papo, meaning conversations, is intended as a space for just that — for people to come together, idle away and chit chat through balmy afternoons. You’ll be greeted by a bright yellow facade of a typical Goan home and welcomed in with smiles and warmth whether you’re a wayward foodie or a weary traveller looking for a place to rest.
All the five rooms carry forth the same charm with their dreamy, nature-inspired wall art and gorgeous four poster beds. In restoring this Goan home (we hear about 200-years-old), so much of the original structure and stories have been kept intact but it’s impossible to miss all the additions that speak of the hosts’ own personalities. Rohit and Baneen are both in love with Goa’s sleepy, undiscovered side and are on a mission to make everyone see the sunshine state in a fresh (morning) light. When you do go next, let us know if the house reminds you of a hill cottage too, all with its wooden beams and attic-type rooms where we could sit and read for hours? Oh, and did we tell you, everything you see here, is for sale?! So whether you love a paperback, the antique bed you sleep on, a painting, a mug plant or whatever else... You can buy it and take it home with you.
While Rohit will happily call Bate Papo his wife’s baby, he’s clearly the one who calls the shots in the kitchen and why not, with all those years spent in the hospitality business. For now, the in-house cafe has a blackboard menu where dishes are switched up every week but a couple of months later, they’ll have a small but fixed menu. We were happy to pick a house salad, herbed grilled chicken and burnt garlic and mushroom soup. The food was all delicately flavoured with fresh ingredients being celebrated and a myriad colours and textures coming together. We can also tell you that Maria’s homemade liqueur will put you in real jolly spirits. So unabashedly ask for your fill.
Come evenings and hosts are happy to point you to the Mae De Deus church or introduce you to the Saligao Club where the who’s who hang out or even share secret finds from the weekly village market with you. They say they’re happy to pack you a picnic basket if you want to head to the fields with bread and juice and watch the sun set or, they know enough people to ferry you to beaches and restaurants if you ever wish to leave.
The pool’s in the making at Bate Papo and we hear they will soon start hosting small community events in their warp around front lawns. Meanwhile, we'll be spending some time at the shop though. Baneen's tasteful curation of handpicked knick knacks from across India include silver jewellery, bamboo and ceramic products, stained glass trinkets and clothes. Soon, there'll also be port wine, jaggery and preserves too. And, because they're all mindful of the environment, most of the products here are earth-friendly (and gorgeous, obviously). So, go shop guilt-free.