If Noor Mohammadi has the most talked about Nihari, then Soorti’s has the most kinds of nihari-like preparations. After the shuttering of Vallibhai, this is probably Bori Mohalla’s last surviving practitioner of the fine art of Bara Handi – a technique that’s all about simmering offal and the tougher cuts in delicately spiced wheat or daal-based gravies, further enriched by the adding fat or marrow. Our picks – the pichota {buff/oxtail} and bhel {a medley of different cuts and gravies} wiped clean with khameeri roti.