Scalp Exfoliation 101: All Your Questions Answered By An Expert

Starting off with the basics. Similar to skin exfoliation, since the scalp is basically an extension of your skin, scalp exfoliation simply means a thorough cleansing of the scalp by getting rid of the dead skin, flakes, and oil clogs that may be present on the top layer of the scalp.

For this, merely using shampoo isn't always enough. When we are shampooing, we usually do it for about 2-3 minutes. But when we are exfoliating our scalp using a scrub, we are supposed to give it at least 10 to 15 minutes, which really makes a difference. So, with shampoo, we are just superficially cleaning the scalp while with exfoliation, we are actually working on the epidermal layer to make sure that we remove the top layer of the scalp.

First, it is very important to identify what type of scalp you have—an oily scalp, a dry scalp, or a sensitive scalp. Dr Pooja says that exfoliation can be done by anybody. The general rule for people who have a normal or dry scalp is that you should not exfoliate more than once a week or maybe once in 10 days. However, if you have a very oily scalp or a lot of dandruff on your scalp, then you may do it twice a week.

Also, if you have got a colour treatment, Dr Pooja usually advises to exfoliate one week after the treatment. Sometimes there's a little bit of colour that stays on the scalp and can lead to irritation, itching, and allergies. So, once the colour has settled in, it is always better to do a session of exfoliation just to make sure that no residue is left behind on your scalp.

Exfoliation is the best way to keep your scalp healthy because it is a great way of early cleaning your scalp and making sure that it contains no more dead skin, oil clogs, or any buildup. You get rid of the dead skin, let a new healthy layer come in, and then you nourish it again. So, one of the biggest benefits is properly cleaning and thoroughly cleansing your scalp so as to get rid of any kinds of flakes and dirt pollutants that can get collected on your scalp over a long period of time. 

Physical exfoliants may contain apricot seeds, pomegranate seeds, or any kind of exfoliant that causes friction. They have granules present and require a lot of massaging, rubbing, and scrubbing.

When it comes to chemical exfoliants, they contain active ingredients such as salicylic acid, lactic acid, or glycolic acid. You basically have to make a layer, like how you do with chemical peels on your face. You just apply it, leave it on for about 10-15 minutes, depending on the intensity of the peel that you're using, and then wash it off.

If you're doing physical exfoliation, you must part your hair into sections, expose your scalp, and then apply the exfoliant. There may be some granules present in the exfoliant so ensure that you properly rub and massage your scalp so that the product penetrates deeply into your scalp. Make sure that you rub it gently without too much pressure because then you may injure the scalp and it may start bleeding. Dr Pooja suggests keeping it on for about 7-10 minutes.

Chemical exfoliants usually do not require scrubbing and massaging—they work on their own by just peeling off the layer. Whenever you pick up a chemical one, the time is usually mentioned on it (again 7 to 10 minutes), depending on the concentration of the chemical. So you leave it on your scalp, it peels off on its own, and then you wash it off.

A few things to take care of:

Never exfoliate on a dry scalp; always spray some water and ensure that your scalp is a little damp before you start with the exfoliation process. While there is no hard and fast rule, it is better to go about it in this order: exfoliation, shampoo, and conditioner. This makes it easier to wash off the exfoliant as well.

Another very important thing with exfoliation is that you need to hydrate your scalp back. So make sure that you always use a very hydrating conditioner or serum after. Otherwise, it can leave your hair feeling very dry and frizzy.

When it comes to scalp exfoliation, Dr Pooja says there are not as many side effects as there are contraindications that you need to take care of. Firstly, if you have an active infection or active acne on your scalp, you should not be exfoliating. Also, if you have any kind of allergies, it's always important to do a patch test and not start off with a very harsh exfoliant right away.

In terms of side effects, if you do it too often, it can lead to a very dry scalp. Plus, if you don't do it properly and are being very harsh with your scalp, it can lead to injuries and bleeding.

Dr Pooja says if you have a very dry scalp, you should go for oil-based exfoliators. You could look out for a combination of ingredients like lactic acid or glycolic acid and oil-based ingredients such as avocado oil, coconut oil, or rosemary oil. If you have a very oily scalp, you should look out for ingredients like salicylic acid which is great for getting rid of any build-up that may be present on your scalp.

You also need to consider the texture of your hair. For example, if you have thick, curly hair, you should not use a physical exfoliator because the granules may get stuck in your hair, making the process very difficult.

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