A trip to the hills, a nervous reset, and a change of scenery are exactly what you need when life has been stuck in fight-or-flight mode. We found ourselves at Sitla Estate, a boutique stay near Mukteshwar, nestled in the Kumaon Himalayas and honestly, it did the job before we even unpacked.
Picture this: wispy clouds rolling over pine-covered ridges, butterflies resting on the most whimsical rose blooms, and a hot cappuccino being handed to you while you slowly stop caring about your emails. That's just what Sitla Estate does to you, and good riddance.
Perched at 7,000 feet near Mukteshwar, this gorgeous heritage property, over 150 years old, is spread over 40 acres. People come here to stay long, catch their breath in clean, crisp air, and soak in views of Nanda Devi and Trishul. A British-era bungalow with ivy-covered walls sits at the centre of it all (this is their Estate Suite), with breathtaking views of mountains, pine trees, and unrestricted nature right opposite. Outside, there's stone seating where you catch up with fellow residents, enjoy the birdsong, and fight the urge to pull out your phone every ten seconds. Inside, a cosy, fully-stocked library awaits a glass of wine in quiet company, followed by a formal dining room built for occasions, and a glasshouse restaurant flooded with sunlight.
There's no in-room service, meal timings are fixed, and there's absolutely no hoity-toity chaos. Mornings mean walks through dense forest with a resident naturalist. Evenings mean unwinding in your own company, which given how overstimulated we all are, everyone needs more of.
Now, food is a major part of the Sitla Estate experience. Each meal is different and is served at a different spot on the property. Breakfast happens at the stone benches, no unnecessary buffet spread, just simple, well-executed delights (one of the best omelettes we have had) made fresh, with mountain views on the side. Lunch is served a few steps down the slope under a tree: a lovely Kumaoni meal with fresh ingredients that puts the whole experience in perspective. Dinner is where things get grand: a four-course continental menu featuring mulberry crumble, tofu dumplings in sauce, morel pasta, and in-house baked garlic bread with loads more to list. Most of the produce is grown on the estate, so you are truly tasting the mountains.
The magician behind it all is Vikram Maira, the host who genuinely does the most. Every nook, every dish on the menu, and every piece of décor is his careful doing. He has built this slice of heaven bit by bit, and it shows. Vikram is always around for a chat, making sure everything is to your liking, offering recommendations for the full mountain-life experience, and just being his most hospitable self.
On to the rooms, there are five categories of suites, each with magnificent views and tasteful colonial-esque décor. We stayed in the Orchard Suite, with windows and a balcony giving us full access to views of the apple orchards and sunrises that stay etched in your memory. A lovely bay window lets you prop yourself up against the cushions with a good book. Every detail is well thought out: vintage-styled draperies, scented pillows and towels, Good Earth drinkware, Blue Tokai coffee pour-overs. Every evening, your room is turned down: bed linens freshened, lights dimmed, windows opened and shuttered to let the mountain breeze in, and dark chocolate squares left on the bedside. This level of attention puts most concierge and butler services at the country's most expensive hotels to shame.
The care is always present, but never in your face. Every request is met with warmth and attention (shoutout to Vijay and his team for being super gracious, always). The idea is to let you move at your own pace, exploring the estate unbothered, stopping when you spot a rare bird on a branch, or losing track of time gazing at snow-capped peaks in the distance.
So if you're looking for a place away from the crowds, where everything is taken care of and all you have is pine-scented air, misty hillsides, and the kind of slow that Delhi never lets you have, you know where to go.
