When In Benaras, Stay With These 60-Something Grannies For Stories & Ghar Ka Khaana

Granny Asha and Aruna run a cosy homestay in Varanasi called Granny’s Inn. Of the many reasons we’d we’d choose to lodge with these adorable nani dadi, our chief motivations would be their insights into the city and lovingly cooked ghar ka khaana.

There’s something so comforting aboutcoming back to a house that’s all heart. You never feel like you’re far from home, and, let’s accept it, Benaras’ jungle of sights and sounds can tire you out. On the bright side, their house is a 10-minute walk from the river and will have you walk through the busiest stretch of the road so you can stop on whim at one of those restaurants {Dina Chaat is quite the star, we hear} or pop into a sari shop for benarasi weaves. 

Mayur {the manager} and Kashi {the cook par excellence}, the grannies’ right and left hand men, ensure everything from cabs to crockery are in order and that you’re never left in the lurch when you have random sightseeing questions.

Once you’re done exploring and back home, a meal, complete with their achaar, chutneys and will soothe your soul like nothing else. And hey, isn’t this gorgeous table, bathed in soft sunshine, just where you’d like to share stories of how your day went? The rooms are clean and sweetly done up with colourful curtains and art work. The open-air courtyard, right in the middle of the house, is perhaps our favourite part, followed closely by the rocking chairs in the common room where we can spend the whole day reading.

When in Benaras, you have to wake up at the crack of dawn to go on a morning boat ride on the Ganges. The sunrise and the sense of calm will make never make you regret leaving the bed. If you miss it though, there’s the sunset version too. If you want to witness the city’s best, book yourself a heritage day-tour with Manjeet guide who knows the city like the back of his hand. With him, you’ll eat at the best lunch places, reach the ghats at the best time and perhaps even hear surprise traditional music from a gifted musician. He knows cool masala chai folks, tuk tuk people and is patient enough to click your travel photos at every spot. Or, there’s Vishnu guide, to see Varanasi’s underground side.

About 2kms away, there’s a quaint handicraft shop full of beautiful things. If you’re the arty type, find Balaji Handicraft will dig the clothes, artefacts, jewellery and conversations here.

If you’re there longer, ask them for a tour of Sarnath to soak in some history and culture. 

We see some photos of Diya Mirza having had a great time with our favourite nani-dadi. Convinced yet? 

The room tariff starts at INR 900 and you can book here.

P.S. Don’t forget to check out the grannies’ shop.