If you’re staying in Landour (or even Mussoorie) you have to come to Chaar Dukaan for breakfast. A row of four tiny shops that have been there forever, they’re famous for their delicious breakfast food (think everything from waffles and pancakes to butter-fried cheese Maggi and bread omelettes). They only do vegetarian food, but their aloo paranthas and bun maska will make you forget about bacon and sausages. Make sure you ask for cards or Ludo while you’re here. There are also plenty of friendly Bhutias (mountain dogs) around who’ll come for belly rubs and leftovers.