Jumva Chalo: Where To Feast On The Best Undhiyus In Mumbai

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Traditionally cooked upside down, underground, in earthen pots, the undhiyu (which legit translates to “upside down”) is a labour of love. Legend has it that it takes hours to prepare, and the process is a meticulous one - a science. Once prepared, it’s enjoyed with puris. Now, the combination of vegetables can be a hit or miss, and you’ve gotta be careful to make sure it never gets too sweet or spicy. So if you’ve thrown your hands up and decided that slaving away in the kitchen isn’t for you, we’ve got a list of places with undhiyus that’ll turn your world, ahem, upside down.

Hiralal Kashidas Bhajiawala

This CP Tank icon has been around for 81 years, and their variation of the seasonal undhiyu is the Surti kind (the recipe is specific to Surat, basically), and it’s a local favourite. When you’re here, don’t forget to try the Khata Dhokla with papaya and besan chutney! You can also get a Jain variant, which comes without green garlic. Still delish, though. The bonus? The ingredients are literally sourced fresh from Surat, every single morning. It doesn’t get more authentic than this.

Price: INR 600 per kilo

Swati Snacks

Alright, Gujju food lists are pretty much incomplete without Swati Snacks, so here it is. Visit Swati Snacks during the winter months for their very indulgent Undhiyu-Puri. This bougie joint, if you don’t already know, is best known for pankis, but pretty much kills everything else too! Our favourite is the Suva Panki.

Price: INR 950 per kilo; INR 360 if you're having it at the restaurant 

Mishty Bela

Malabar Hill’s Mishty Bela has an authentic Gujarati undhiyu that’s not too oily, and a dependable fave for the decades that it’s been around. You can order it online, and since this is the type of store that’s got mithais, farsaans and snacks… Please don’t forget to order more Gujju goodness to complement their already stellar undhiyu.

Price: INR 900 per kilo

Jitendra Snacks, Goregaon West

Jitendra stores is a Goregaon favourite for many reasons - it’s that neighbourhood store which will have you covered for all your chakna and chai-nashta needs, think vacuum theplas, pickles, dips, sweets and snacks. This undhiyu season, we realised that theirs is really balanced, and quite authentic, so if you live in this part of the ‘burbs, head here in the next couple of months to pick up a box!

Price: INR 400 per kilo; INR 220 for half a kilo

Soam's Baked Undhiyu

Soam’s a classic, but we’re here to discuss their take on another classic, the undhiyu. Soam’s got a baked, oil-free version of the undhiyu, which, when not carefully prepared, can get really oily. This one’s obviously diabetic friendly, too. And there’s also a Jain variant.

Price: They serve a minimum quantity for four people, where INR 260 is the cost per person

Kandoi Haribhai Damodar Mithaiwala

Established in 1952, Kandoi Haribhai Damodar Mithaiwala is best known for their mithais and farsaans. They’ve got 4 branches across the city, at Santacruz, Borivali, Walkeshwar and Matunga. Since the founders are Gujaratis, you can bet the undhiyu is pretty killer.

Price: INR 750 per kilo

Ambika General Stores, Andheri

This hidden gem in the Four Bungalows market of Andheri west is a Gujarati food haven. From inumerable flavours of khakras, to unique chutneys and what not, you'll find it all here. Come every winter, they stock up on Undhiyo that's delish and cost effective per kilo. The Undhiyo is available between 10AM and 4PM, during which it sells like hot cakes. 

Price: INR 700 per kilo

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