If Noor Mohammadi has the most talked-about nihari, then Surti’s is the one with the equally passionate cult following. After the shuttering of Vallibhai, this is probably Bohri Mohalla’s last surviving practitioner of the fine art of bahra handi – a technique of simmering offal and the tougher cuts in delicately spiced wheat or dal-based gravies, further enriched by the adding fat or marrow.
Our picks – the pichota {buffalo or ox-tail} and bhel {a medley of different cuts and gravies} wiped clean with khameeri roti.