Spring, summer or winter, it's every Kolkatan's fave go-to place for holidays in the hills. There's many a travelogue written in ode to the queen of hills, but nothing compares to the real experience of enjoying Darjeeling in person. And especially when the little town decks up in all its glory of dark green pine trees, bright red azaleas and jolly cheer in the cold air, can you ever doubt Christmas will be special in Darjeeling? This holiday season don't worry if you haven't given your heart to someone special because you can still make it memorable by simply spending it in Darj! Here's what you must do to experience the loveliest red and green Christmas.
Wanna Spend Your Christmas In Darjeeling? Here's How To Do It Right
Quaint Stays
It's really not too late to plan a holiday in Darj, and if you're the enthusiastic sort like I am you'd surely just get online and book yourself a flight or bus ticket (getting train ticket may be difficult, but try for a tatkal) to Siliguri, right about now! Once at Siliguri hike it up to Darj in a shared jeep or taxi, but before you go remember to book of your stay. Don't let anyone tell you that stays are all booked because we found several on booking.com for as low as INR 800! Of course, staying at the Beatles-themed Revolver would have been a swell thing, but in case they turn out to be fully booked you can try the Air BnB's or the even quaint little hotels.
X Mas Eve Dinner
The first thing that'll get to you after reaching Darj is the jolly holiday cheer, and then there's the cold that'll leave you doing 'brrrrr' for sure (it snowed in Sandakhpu!). Trek it up to Glenary's and pick fabulous winter woollens for a steal from the stalls standing just outside the eatery. Warm yourself up in mittens and mufflers and then then check into the old British-styled cafe Glenary's for sumptuous feast on Christmas eve night. The vintage cash register to the London-style red telephone booth and old grandfather clocks, it's a trippy time capsule to the bygone era. And when you've recovered enough from this time travel, make a meal of the roasted duck, beef steak, pigs in blanket, apple pies and plum pudding. Oh, and remember to pick a Glenary's special Christmas cake when heading out to enjoy it on the holiday morning!
Carol Singing
Once through with dinner, you must absolutely join the caroling choir that gathers outside Glenary's. A regular for several years now, they put up a booth of pretty handmade lights and other bric-a-brac for sale through the two evenings of Christmas. 'Tis the season to be happy, so sing your hearts out to Jingle Bells and Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer, along with the carolers as they raise money for the underprivileged.
Pick Some Curios For Your Gifts
Ring In Christmas With A Drink
When in Darj, a definite way to ring in Christmas would be to hit up one of the many popular pubs and cafes that dot this town. The two two places that I love to hang out in for a quiet night of drinks with a small and interesting group are Joey's Pub and Gatty's Cafe. Popular among locals and frequenters to Darj, both these quaint watering holes could be your best spot to enjoy the local music scene while toasting to good drinks. gabled roof with wooden awning and a iron portico fence in the front, Joey's (stand just adjacent to Rink Mall) resembles a tiny old English pub with wooden booths and worn out furniture. Gatty's has a more uber cool feel with wi-fi, board games and live music gigs keeping the vibe going.
Attend The Christmas Mass In the Morning
Kick off the Christmas morning catching the majestic mountains wake up to a brilliant sunrise. You can hike it to Tiger Hill to witness the magnificent sunrise at close, but follow it up with a visit the old Scottish St Andrew's Church (I highly recommend it) that sits on top of the town of Darj. Attend the special Christmas morning mass along with the handful of parishioners and have a lovely time listening to carols and hymns, and exploring the old churchyard.
Breakfast At Keventer's
Call it overrated or over done, but a trip to Darj is incomplete without having your breakkie at Keventer's (at least for me). The warm plate of greasy sausages paired with toast and a mug of delicious hot chocolate is food for the tummy and the soul. if anything, the winding queue around the store and through its staircase should tell why giving this a miss is a serious no-no. Sit on the open rooftop and make the most of the nippy cold winds and the warm sun, and enjoy a breakfast overlooking the mountain ranges and the town below. The random crop of new and unfinished buildings can be a downer, though, to the beautiful view.
Afternoon Tea At Nathmulls
Don't be surprised if you spot tea shops and boutiques in every nook and cranny in this little town, after the champagne of teas (Darjeeling tea) comes from this very district. There's of course no way to pick the best from the best, but if you're looking for a pretty tea room to enjoy you're afternoon cup of golden tea, then you must definitely check into Nathmul's in Mall Road. A glass and wood paneled tea room, this one hang on the edge of the hill and overlooks the beautiful hilly slope below. The whole range of summer, spring, autumn, winter, white and what not is available on the menu; so, don't be surprised if you end up feeling somewhat like a tea connoisseur by the end of it.
Christmas Dinner At Mayfair
This one needs to done at least once to experience the whole shebang of Darjeeling's Christmas. This iconic luxurious hotel that's more than a century old and is known to have hosted the who's who of the world (from author Dominique Lapierre to Jawaharlal Nehru), stands at the edge of the town at some distance from the St Andrew's Church. The paved winding vine covered pathway that leads down to the Old British style hotel will enamour you at first sight. Step into the open courtyard and the most wonderful white Christmas tree with the most fabulous decorations will greet you. Check into the restaurants Magnolia or Tiffany's to enjoy a magnificent Christmas dinner, but later you've got to go for drinks at the plush Goray Bar simply to check out the rare and fantastic paintings of renowned painted Goray Douglas.