Dermatologist Reveals The Ultimate Skincare Guide For Mature Skin

As we age, our skincare needs to evolve, and a correct skincare regime can be a valuable ally in maintaining youthful, radiant skin. Understanding which skincare ingredient to incorporate into your routine based on your age can help you achieve optimal results while avoiding potential pitfalls. Your 20s are to understand your skin type and establish a consistent skincare routine involving a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturiser, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect against sun damage; that can aid your skin as it matures. 

As you approach your late 20s, you must introduce retinol into your routine. Start with a low concentration (0.2% or less) or consider using retinol esters, which are milder. Begin by applying retinol once a week and gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance. This is also a good time to pay attention to any early signs of aging, such as fine lines or uneven skin tone, and adjust your skincare routine accordingly.

By your 30s, you should have a solid skincare routine in place, including cleansing, moisturising, and daily sunscreen use. This is the decade to be proactive about anti-aging skincare.

Incorporate retinol into your nightly routine, opting for a concentration between 0.2% and 0.5%. If you have oily skin, you can use retinol daily, but if your skin is dry or sensitive, consider using the skin cycling method—using retinol for a few weeks, then taking a break—to minimise irritation.

Look out for early signs of aging, such as uneven skin tone or depigmentation, and consider adding other skincare ingredients like niacinamide or azelaic acid to target these concerns. Remember to always apply SPF during the day, as retinol can increase sun sensitivity.

In your 40s and 50s, maintaining a comprehensive skincare routine is crucial. Alongside your cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen, incorporate a retinol product with a concentration of 0.5% or higher. You can also consider incorporating tretinoin, the most potent form of retinol, into your routine gradually. 

To enhance the effects of retinol, add hydrating agents like peptides and hyaluronic acid to your routine. Additionally, incorporating antioxidants, both orally and topically, can further boost the effectiveness of retinol. Look for products containing vitamins C and E, or consider taking supplements.

While retinol can address many signs of aging, it's important to recognise its limitations. For more advanced concerns, such as deep wrinkles or sagging skin, consult a dermatologist to explore other treatment options like laser therapy or injectables.

As we grow old, all layers of skin and adjacent areas age, whether it is the skin, the underlying fat layer, the muscle layer, or even bone. Understanding which layer impacts how and leads to what signs of aging, is crucial to understanding the kind of skin care required. 

Skin Layers: The skin has two layers: the epidermis and the dermis. The epidermal layer acts as a barrier and prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). It also contains melanocytes (melanin-producing cells). As we age, the skin barrier weakens, leading to increased TEWL, making the skin dry, dehydrated, and dull. Cumulative sun exposure activates melanocytes, causing uneven skin tone, tanning, and sunspots. At the dermal layer, there is a gradual loss of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, leading to sagging skin, fine lines, and reduced elasticity.

Fat Layer: The face loses deep fat pads while superficial fat pads hypertrophy along with ligament laxity. Think of facial fat like a 3 BHK apartment where fat is distributed unevenly across the face, separated by cutaneous ligaments. As we age, fat diminishes while these ligaments stay, leading to laugh lines, marionette lines, tear trough deformity, malar festoons, and jowls. Repositioning fat and strengthening ligaments is key to maintaining structure.

Muscle Layer: Facial muscles, known as mimetic muscles, create expressions. Over time, repetitive movements lead to wrinkles. No amount of skincare can erase wrinkles; only procedures like Botox can soften them.

Bone Level: Bone loss occurs due to calcium and phosphate depletion, making bones porous and weak. This can flatten cheeks, cause chin retrusion, and result in jawline loss (gonial angle reduction). Currently, aesthetic procedures can address all aging aspects except bone loss.

Age-related changes occur at the skin, fat, muscle, and bone levels. While skin-level concerns such as hyperpigmentation, dryness, and fine lines can be managed with skin care, deeper changes in the fat and muscle levels require procedures like dermal fillers, Doublo Gold (HIFU), thread lifts, and Botox.