The Evolution Of Fashion’s Controversial Favourite: Corsets

From Emma Stone claiming that her “organs shifted” while shooting The Favourite to the opening scene in Bridgerton where Mrs. Featherington can be seen asking for her Penelope’s corset to be pulled tighter, the corset has been marketed by period films and movies as a torture device, which women were subjected to to appear thinner, more curvy, and hence more desirable to men. These representations have invited a lot of backlash from fashion watchers especially interested in history, who have pointed out that regency era movies and series paint a false picture of corsets and their purpose, and by that association, of women in those times. (Though one does wonder about the logistics of it all. The front lacing in corsets was introduced in the 1800s, and removing it, especially in times when you are rushing to take off your clothes to just be able to do your business, must have been a whole chore and quite embarrassing?)

Corsets were originally made of iron, and were used by royalty (both men and women) to accentuate their body and by doctors for orthopaedic purposes. They were then adopted by the bourgeois, in a wooden form, and eventually fabric materials with metal framing. The corset design went through changes constantly, because its wide usage called for innovation. From tight lacing to introducing metal loops and laces in the front, to eventually a sports-friendly corset that allowed more movement without compromising the support – the corset design went through a series of changes to incorporate the changes in women’s position in society.

These changes were driven mainly by two things, the first being the feminist movement. The first wave of feminism challenged the body standard that women were subjected to maintain, and the expectation from women to labour at home all day, while also wearing corsets that restricted their movement. Radical feminists of that time rejected corsets and refused to accept it as part and parcel of femininity. The second was World War I, where more and more women started wearing uniforms, and it took away the need for wearing corsets and padding, since the clothes were also designed for movement and comfort. Post the war, more women were liberated to start working or take up sports, and the need for a comfortable corset design became more important than ever.

Throughout this time, the assumption that the corset is an accurate metaphor for women’s lives in the 1800s is inaccurate. Simply because it is unfair to assume that those women didn’t fight oppressive systems. Corsets might have been a way to accentuate their body in ways they liked on many occasions, but it wasn’t the core use case of the accessory.

Corsets were largely a way for women to support their breasts to stay active through the day. In fact, many argue that the corset design was actually better than the modern day brassiere, which is known to be bad for the back and spine because of its straps and rib-compressing waist.

After waning off in the 1900s, corsets are back in fashion. The major credit for this goes to TikTok, which has inspired notable trends such as cottagecore, ‘that girl’, maximalism, and more. So much so, that corsets pretty much heralded the acceptance of Instagram-based thrift stores in India. Young millennials turned to thrifting to be able to get their hands on a nice corset. Today, corsets are seen as a symbol of modern femininity. It is a way to incorporate your soft, feminine identity into your fashion. However, that is not the only appeal of the trend.

Modern fashion is also majorly about having an edge, and reclaiming innerwear as outerwear has been a part of the culture for long. We saw it take over when lacy bralettes became acceptable options for tops, and the corset trend is the second wave of innerwear as outerwear. It is also feminist in a way, since women have been told for ages to hide their bodies. Wearing something very intimate as the sole item of clothing is rebellious, as women themselves always have been.

I feel that the trend brings the story of the corset into a full circle. The story of the corset is one that goes hand in hand with freedom. Women’s freedom of movement, autonomy over their body and its image, and if you think about it, their freedom to simply be. Corsets today are a symbol of the right to self-expression, making one’s choices, and self-empowerment. And if there could ever be one item of clothing that has constantly challenged patriarchal notions and pushed society’s expectations from women back in their place, a corset would be it.