Moradabad ki Mashhoor Biryani ki Puraani Dukaan

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Our next stop, a couple of minutes’ walk back into the basti, on Dargah Road, was a shop called Moradabad ki Mashhoor Biryani ki Puraani Dukaan. There are two types of biryani to choose from: chicken and buff. The Moradabadi biryani is a very simple one, the basmati rice very long-grained and fragrant, the chicken perfectly tender, the only visible spices being cumin seeds and thickly chopped green chillies. To add a little tang to the biryani, there was a large salt shaker of a masala that I couldn’t quite identify: something like chaat masala, but possibly a proprietary concoction of this eatery. A little bit sprinkled on the biryani certainly added to the dish’s charm. Served alongside this was a fiery-looking red chutney.

Where: Follow the directions in the description above, on Dargah Road.

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Madhulika Liddle is best-known as the author of the Muzaffar Jang series, about a Mughal detective who debuted in The Englishman’s Cameo. Madhulika lives in New Delhi, and also writes fiction in other genres, including humour. Her other passions range from history to classic cinema, travel, and food: writings on all of these can be found at www.madhulikaliddle.com.