Paatra Serves Classic North Indian Flavours With Great Elan

Gorge on gorgeous sizzling tikkas, smokey kebabs and very well done biryanis at desi diner Paatra at the Jaypee Vasant Continental.

We totally love delicious pick-me-ups, and this was one department that Paatra scored very high on. The hotshot of the evening was the Chargha – very chunky fried boneless chicken that was crisp outside, but tender and flaky inside. Served with a creamy garlic yoghurt, this was one starter that we were savouring even when we were well into our mains.

The Khad Ke Chaamp won us over too. An ode to nomadic dessert tribal food, this meaty treat married goat chops with crushed spices, baked under molten ash for a smokey subtle effect.

The main eats had some stellar, solid stars too. The nomadic theme continued with Murg Banjara, succulent morsels of Delhi’s favourite bird in intense but not overwhelming spices. The chef recommended Dum Ki Gosht Biryani is always an easy winner, but Paatra elevated it to further glory with very tender mutton cuts, and a castle of dough that contained it and helped cook it to steamy perfection.

In the herbivore section, we found the Paneer Pyaz Ki Sabzi unusual and mildly intriguing. Though not typical, it paired a spicy gravy with button mushrooms, and mild cottage cheese dumplings to good effect.

We ended this heavy-duty session on a sweet note: Milky kulfi on a bed of finely chopped fruit.

We know it’s a function of the wares on display, but the meat outshone the vegetarian stuff on this menu, and we would have liked a more equitable balance.

Go heavy on the starters, pair them with a drink, and get a silken gravy, or a biryani post that for a totally epicurean evening.