Decoding Salicylic Acid: Why It Is Popular For Clear Skin & Products To Buy

Salicylic acid is derived from willow bark, an herbal tree especially known to be used for easing pain and reducing inflammation. It is known to belong to a class of ingredients called salicylates. Now, while we are no chemists, it's important to learn about it's structure to figure out how it works on the skin. When it comes to skincare products, there are two classes of acids: beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Both alpha and beta hydroxy acids exfoliate the skin, but AHAs are water-soluble, while BHAs are oil-soluble. AHAs work well on the skin's surface to loosen old, dead skin and reveal fresh newer skin whereas BHAs like Salicylic acid work deeper and are able to penetrate into the pores to unclog them. 

Salicylic acid is known to penetrate deep into the skin. It is this property that makes it such an effective ingredient for treating acne, particularly blackheads and whiteheads (also called comedonal acne). And for those of us always relying on the 'prevention is better than cure' ideology for our skincare, this ingredient is a win-win as it not only treats current breakouts but can also helps prevent. With its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid dissolves skin debris that clog pores, aiding in the healing of red, inflamed pimples and pustules. Mimicking anti-aging ingredients, Salicylic Acid will also helps expedite cellular turnover and can reduce swelling and redness.

Fights acne: Salicylic acid is an extremely effective acne treatment. It gets into the pores and dissolves the oil and dead skin cells that cause breakouts. It also fights off the comedonal acne-causing bacteria that cause all this trouble to the skin, so consider it your skin's saviour from mild acne.

Removes dead skin cells: Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and has effective exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, promoting a smoother and brighter complexion.

Decreases oil secretion: One of the primary causes of acne is pores clogged with oil build-up and dirt. Salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the pores, loosening and dissolving all this gunk which makes the skin feel less oily after regular use.

Reduces inflammation and redness:  Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid can help calm redness and irritation in the skin. This makes it suitable for those with sensitive skin as well, if used in moderation.

Brightens skin: As mentioned before, it removes dead skin cells and is often used as a milder chemical peel for acne-prone folks or folks wanting a less intense peel.

Salicylic acid is available in almost all skincare products from—cleansers, toners, serums, moisturisers, spot treatment creams/gels and even sunscreens. Serums tend to be the most effective as they are most concentrated and usually have smaller molecules of an active ingredient, that penetrate deeper into the skin. However, if your skin is overly sensitive, a spot treatment applied on only the problematic areas is a much better idea than a full-face application.

Another point to be paid close attention to is that if used in high concentrations or too frequently, salicylic acid can cause skin irritation and dryness. It is suggested to start with using it once or twice per week and increasing the frequency if it suits you well. Do not rush into using it every day on your initial days of use, slow and steady is the key to winning the race here.

Dr. Sheths is a homegrown brand that employs effective formulations backed by our culture's Ayurveda hacks to help Indian skin concerns. Their Neem & Salicylic Acid Face Wash is great for taking the grim off after a long day to fight off all the dirt and pollution that clings to the skin to cause acne. While salicylic acid gives gentle exfoliation, neem fights off the bacteria from growing and tulsi extract gives a soothing effect to calm down the redness and inflammation. All in all, a great first step for your nighttime routine to keep breakouts at bay.

PS: Check out our review of the Dr. Sheth's sunscreens here.

W would suggest using it only on days you have active acne and not every day as that can be a little stripping for the skin. It has salicylic acid, witch hazel (another acne-fighting ingredient) and willow bark. These three exfoliating ingredients together help provide deep exfoliation to dry out the acne but can at times be too drying on the skin, so do make it a point to follow it up with a hydrating moisturiser.

The Ordinary is pretty much the brand that fuelled everyone's love for using active ingredients in their skincare routine and their salicylic acid serum does more than justice to the brand's hype. The 2% solution is formulated for all skin types and does an exceptional job at exfoliation. The formula is light, removes dead skin cells smoothly and makes the skin feel less oily if used correctly.

While you are at it, check out our views on The Ordinary's other OG products here.

Another serum with 2% pure salicylic acid. We liked this one as it not only exfoliates but also has hydrating ingredients like blueberry extract, prickly pear extract and chlorophyll—which is the skincare world's not-so-new obsession that claims to minimise pores and soothes skin. This serum helps in attaining healthy skin by giving ample hydration and plumness while doing its main job of clearing out pesky acne.

The Pink Foundry Overnight Acne Spot Corrector is a drying lotion with active ingredients like salicylic acid and sulfur that provide exfoliation to remove the acne-causing impurities from the pores while the team of zinc oxide, calamine and glycerin provide oodles of soothing and hydration to the skin's barrier. Apply it with a cotton bud before you sleep and wake up to flattened acne or zit the next day, such is the power of this product but refrain from using every day as the formula is quite strong.

This spot corrector is pretty good as it also has niacinamide and glycolic acid, two other active ingredients alongside salicylic acid to put up a strong fight against the acne-causing bacteria. What's more to love is that they also work well to prevent acne scars so you don't have to buy another product for the same. Also, as it's a transparent gel, you can wear it under makeup to protect the area from getting clogged with buildup further.

Can salicylic acid be used every day?

Salicylic acid-based products are safe to use daily if used as directed by your dermatologist and tolerated by your skin. As you build up tolerance for the active ingredient, you will be able to apply it more often but don't jump into using it too much too soon.

Can salicylic acid be used with vitamin C?

Yes, but sequence and timing are everything here. As both of these are active ingredients, it would be better to not mix them up and use them separately during the different times of the day. Vitamin C works best with sunscreen so stick to using it in your morning skincare regime. While we suggest you keep salicylic acid for the nighttime as the skin goes into rejuvenation mode and heals the best during those hours.

What are the side effects of salicylic acid?

As mentioned before, if used in high concentrations or too frequently, salicylic acid can cause skin irritation and dryness. Too much exfoliation can damage the skin's barrier so do not overuse active ingredients. Also, if your skin's overly sensitive or reactive, skip the idea of using it unless suggested by your dermatologist.