By Jeremy Brian

First, there was Barney’s ‘Suit Up’ antics in How I Met Your Mother, then, the dashing lads in Mad Men flashed impeccably tailored suits. Finally, Harvey Specter {from the TV show, Suits} settled our growing suspicion – suits are back and they look better than ever.

The weather in India is warm, the roads are dusty and the people are laid back. There’s almost a sense of amusement for anyone who stands out on the streets and yet, it’s that distinction that garners respect for a man in a suit – He must be important. He must be professional. He must be a man of authority.

guide-to-wearing-suits-delhi-men

What are the most important aspects of a suit?

A suit has to fit the occasion, the climate, time of day and the season. A tailor-made suit should follow these rules |

Cut | How it falls on you. A well-fitted, inexpensive suit looks more elegant than an ill-fitted one with a designer label. For the Indian build, it is advisable to avoid shoulder pads. A shorter man will benefit from a narrow-cut, with narrow lapels and close-fitting trouser legs. Suits for an athletic man must be cut to his natural measurement. A shorter trouser leg {breaking at the ankles} has become the preferred standard for international designers.

Colour | Is the colour complementing your complexion, hair and eye colour. Traditional colours are dark blue, charcoal grey and black. A brown or green suit can be worn for informal occasions. A navy blue suit with brown leather shoes is a classic Italian look and works for Indian men as well.

Fabric | Light-weight fabrics suit Indian climates. Pure wool is the preferred fabric because it elegantly drapes a man’s form and is crease-resistant. High-grade wool is a breathable fabric, which will keep you cool in summer as well. Linen is a great option, all year round. Avoid cheap, polyster blends.

Raymond offers pure wool with a thread count from 80s to 250s {expensive, high quality wool}. For a regular suit, a thread count of 80s-100s is sufficient.

Thanks, but I would rather buy a suit from a store…

If you prefer a ready-made suit, allow time for alterations and keep these sartorial rules in mind |

 

I think I’m ready to Suit Up!

1. Find a good tailor | An Indian man will likely benefit from a combination of the three standard fits – English, Italian and American. A good tailor will be able to tell the difference and recommend the perfect fit for your build.

2. Comfort | Comfort should be your deciding factor. If it feels tight on any part of your body, ask for alterations or try a different size.

3. Three fittings rule | Three fittings are standard for tailor-made suits. Don’t rush the process.

4. Shop around | Buying a quality suit could be an expensive proposition. Do your research, browse through magazines and look at celebrities for style inspiration. Store assistants can be helpful. Ask a female friend to help you shop – she will enjoy telling you what to wear and give you an honest opinion.

Armed with the most stylish choice of masculine attire, you have every reason to look your dapper best this winter.

Your handbook for shopping for & tailoring suits in Delhi |

Study by Janak |  N 9, South Extension Part 1, Delhi; 011 24631504

Karan Nasir |  M 14 A, Lajpat Nagar II, Delhi; 011 46508033 or GS 0019, Grand Mall, Gurgaon; 0124 4375385

Sehgal Brothers | G 13, South Extension Part 1; 011 24692121

Studio Janak | First floor, 17, City Square Mall, Rajouri Garden, Delhi; 011 45064030

The Darzi | A 6, Rajouri Garden, Delhi; 011 25160894 or 36, Ambience Mall, Gurgaon; 0124 4029203

Vedi Tailor | M 60, Middle Circle, Connaught Place, Delhi; 011 23416901 {note: they don’t keep readymade suits}

Vaish at Rivoli | 25, Regal Building, Connaught Place, Delhi; 011 23362512 {note: they don’t keep readymade suits}

Grovers | 47 A, Khan Market, Delhi; 011 24625622 {note: they don’t keep readymade suits}

Canali | 223, DLF Emporio Mall, Vasant Kunj, Delhi; 011 46040731

Raymond’s | E 11, Inner Circle, Connaught Place, Delhi; 011 23413867

About the Author | Jeremy Brian is a style consultant based in Hyderabad. He conducts training for men on attire and grooming and writes for lifestyle magazines. Follow his style tips  and connect with him here www.facebook.com/thedapsterproject

Inputs from Surbhi, of Headtilt.