Loya, which means 'to feast' in the culture of the Bakarwal shepherds of the Himalayan regions, is Bangalore's newest North Indian fine dining inside the iconic Taj West End. And true to its name, you are here to feast on flavours beyond what is considered North Indian food these days. And we're not talking just about the food, but including how these forgotten classics from Punjab to the Himalayas are cooked. The space (where Masala Klub used to be) is done up beautifully with elements from the region -- from the multi-coloured upholstery to the pahadi motifs and utensils, you'll feel inspired to rummage through your grandmother's collection of antique utensils and prop it by the dining table. The al fresco seating by the waterside makes for a great spot in the evenings.
You know your meal will be a treat when the chef arrives at your table to kick off your feast with the Dal Ki Chaat -- a delightfully piquant crispy chaat featuring besan and gehun crisps and chilli oil. As we wait for our mains to come, we can't help but scan the expansive menu. Sigdi-grilled farm-sourced paneer, prawns in pahadi bhaang jeera chutney, and chicken cooked in earthen pots with stone flowers give us a fairly good idea of the indigenous ingredients and cooking methods used. The Bharwan Karare Kulche and Ghost Chilli Murg Tikka are next to arrive. The flaky texture of the kulche and the pindi chole served with it was nothing short of hitting all the right spots. The Ghost Chilli Murg Tikka which used the dhungar technique of smoking dishes feature a smoked coconut-carrot puree and while we missed the heat of the Ghost Chilli (we're hot heads) we loved how the grilled chicken paired with the puree.
The highlight of our mains was the Kangra Khodiya Gosht, the Pahadi-special mutton curry with hand-ground, charred walnut ink giving the dish its unique black colour. Melt-in-the-mouth mutton that we happily mopped up with Gola Paratha, a flaky, layered wholewheat bread crumbled into a ball.
While we don't have much of a sweet tooth, the Badana Pearls made us question it. Served in a beautifully crafted jewellery box, that we wanted to take home, it features boondi, a rabri-saffron foam, and nuts. It's not too sweet but just the sweet finish you need.
Price For Two: INR 6,500 without alcohol (approx)
