Everything You Know About Scalp (And Hair) Care Is Wrong

Just like you have different types of people, there are different types of scalps:

Dry: Similar to most dates nowadays — usually flaky and prickly. The scalp remains constantly parched, and in need of hydration. Tonics and oils are the best way to hydrate.

Oily: You know the hyperactive, restless type? It's this scalp. Producing more oil (and scenarios in their mind) than needed! Leading to unwanted consequences like dandruff and acne. The best for this type is to cleanse their soul and scalp every day. 

Sensitive: Thinking of Pisces? Me too. Easily inflamed, red, and itchy. Best to use mild, soothing products (and words)!

It has been believed for the longest time that hair care is interchangeable with scalp care, and while not much, there is a difference.

Hair care focuses on the length of your hair (essentially dead cells), and helps maintain its texture. So, if frizziness is your problem, you must look into haircare. Scalp care is related to your scalp health (groundbreaking, I know). It's actually getting to the root of the problem (get it?). Now when you think of it, it makes sense - all professional treatments treat the scalp, not hair - be it PRP, micro-needling, or even exfoliation. 

A healthy scalp means better hair growth, improved hair quality, no dandruff, and saying bye to hair fall!  Dr Pooja says, "While haircare is to make your hair appear healthier, it's scalp care you turn to make your hair grow healthily." Hence, proved that nothing happens just by changing shampoo or conditioner. Our hair might be, but we're not falling for these marketing gimmicks now.

Hair oils are a personal choice, depending on what works for you and your hair. Dr Pooja suggests using Jojoba and Olive oil for your hair as they are lighter, resulting in better absorption. I asked about Onion oil too, one of the biggest trends. Medical research shows that people who regularly use onion oil have visibly less hair fall, especially those who suffer from telogen effluvium (a condition where you lose more than 150 hair strands daily). All because it contains sulphur, which helps strengthen and improves elasticity. I, for one, was happy to know that tolerating the foul smell of it is worth it.

The secret sauce, however, is the head massage that often accompanies these oils. It leads to better blood flow and circulation. Use what you wish, but take the time to massage it in properly.

Pro-Tip: Shop the best lightweight oils to nourish your hair.

My entire life was a lie. I've believed that washing my hair daily results in a lot of dryness and hair breakage. However, Dr Pooja corrects me that unless you have a very dry scalp, you should be washing your hair every day. And for people with dandruff, it's imperative. Again, the type of shampoo you use is up to you; make sure it's not very drying or harmful.

Your scalp is essentially an extension of your skin, just with more hair follicles, and just like you wash your face and body every day, you should be doing that for your scalp. Your scalp will not turn into a dry dessert as it produces the optimal amount of sebum to protect its barrier daily. Best to use a conditioner or a mask to keep hair moisturized after every wash. 

Pro-Tip: The top-rated organic shampoos and conditioners, for you.

The significant opinion is that washing hair with warm water results in dandruff. My hairstylist told me this, and since then, I have been torturing myself, using cold water, even in winter. To my surprise, Dr Pooja says that washing with slightly-warm water is NO problem at all. The problem comes when it is hot water, which remains a no-no.

Dr Pooja was just as perplexed as me when I asked her about rice water and said, "I have no idea why people do this, it results in nothing". She further adds. "there is no research or studies yet, which is why we can not say it works."

On the other hand, what you should invest in is glycolic acid. It is a peeling agent that gets rid of any dead cells, pollutants, build-up and even helps with dandruff. It works as a much-needed deep cleanse and allows for faster regeneration of cells. Dr Pooja recommends using it not more than once a week.

Another bizarre trend that works is combing your hair 100 times; it's odd because people count till they complete 100 — but that's not why it works. The science behind this is getting proper blood circulation. Now, if you're combing the ends of your hair (that too a hundred times), it will not have much of an effect.

You should be mindful of trends, understand what they are trying to achieve and use what works best for you.

Is there a change? Well, a little bit, but not drastically. In colder months, skin tends to get dehydrated quickly, so it is recommended to wash on alternate days, but in hot summer months, when you're out and about, sweating like a pig, it's important to wash daily. In both, though, what's important is that you keep your scalp clean and stimulated.

All these types of salon treatments make hair more manageable. Smoothening restructures the bonds of your hair using chemicals, while keratin adds a layer of protein, which evidently, is the healthier option. In both cases, the scalp is not affected as the treatment is done on hair lengths.

Using chemicals has side effects; Dr Pooja swears by Moroccan Oil and regular conditioning. It's better for your hair in the long run and gives you a shine and shield, making your hair more manageable without the chemicals. This is more of a hair care tip than for the scalp.

Pro-Tip: Still feel like getting one or maybe a self-care session? Head here.

Following the West, dry shampoos have recently gained popularity in India over the past few years. They're a quick fix, and honestly, in the fast-paced, always-running-late sort of life, it's revolutionary. But it doesn't clean your scalp; all it does is suck the oil on your head and work as a temporary fix. In reality, it's just another product building up on your scalp that can lead to dandruff and folliculitis (inflamed follicles) if not washed off. 

This doesn't mean that you can't use them at all. Sometimes, when you don't have the time or want a little extra volume, it's OK to use. But avoid using it too much, as only washing your hair can result in a clean scalp.

There are all sorts of hair care brands that now proudly advertise that they offer sulphate and paraben-free products (including the same ones that used to sell them before) only because consumers are actively looking at the ingredients of what they're buying. Dr Pooja, however, clarifies that these ingredients only prove to be harmful when over a certain percentage. The real problem here lies in no actual regulations to check what is happening.

Parabens: According to research, parabens are safe to use, even in extremely large doses. Typically, they are used at levels ranging from 0.01% to 0.3% but are considered safe for use in cosmetics at levels up to 25%.

Sulphates: A surfactant which allows the oil and water molecules to bind together to get rid of dirt, oil and grime easily. It's what gives that squeaky clean feeling after a wash. It is generally safe to use if it is not likely to stay on your skin or scalp for a long period of time. Products that will be on the skin for a prolonged time can contain no more than 0.05% - 2.5% SLS in most countries but this cap varies based on how long the product is likely to be in contact with skin.

Silicones: These are incredibly effective for adding shine, sealing in moisture and managing frizz. Today, there are thousands of types of silicones used in over 50% of all hair care products in the market in levels as low as 0.01% in shampoos and conditioners all the way up to 85% in your average anti-frizz hair serums. These are not harmful till the time you're getting rid of the buildup they cause, as product build-up leads to breakage and lifeless-looking strands.

Most products in the market supposedly have these ingredients well within permissible limits, but there is a lack of regulation for them, still.

In a gist, it's more important to massage your scalp than to use any fancy product or treatment. And make sure you wash your head more often than you think you should. 

If you've got this covered, you're already doing what most aren't and all things essential for healthy hair.