If you visit Chennai during the month of December, you will hear a lot about Margazhi. But what is it really? This guide will tell you not just that but also help you enjoy the Margazhi’ music festival to the fullest! From art to food and gossip, here’s your way into the Margazhi month.
Your Guide To Enjoying Margazhi Like A Chennaiite!
Rise Up For Aalapanai Mornings
This is a must-have experience during the December music festival. Usually, this 8 am slot is allotted to senior artistes and you can enjoy it without dealing with a huge crowd. Watch revered artists do their magic on stage and put a spell on you. Lectures and demonstrations about the various aspects of Carnatic music are also held in plenty - this one’s a must if you want to see music interacting with Math and Science.
But First, Get A Kaapi
Marghazi season is all about early birds. People start lining up at venue spaces, but it's not just for the performances but also to sip on the fresh filter kaapi. You also get to enjoy gossip - things like which artists are performing, what saris the female singers will be wearing and which singer went off shruthi (pitch). As to where you can get coffee - try Narada Gana Sabha (NGS), The Music Academy, or Bhrama Gana Sabha. Wherever you decide to get your kaapi, you won’t be going wrong; so try a new one each day!
Groove To The Beats Of Experienced Musicians
The pre-lunch slot during the Marghazi season is an important one - everyone’s thinking of art and food (best combo ever!). If you overslept and forgot to attend the morning session, get to this one and watch some of the upcoming musicians like Anahita-Apoorva (sister duo) and KP Nandhini.
Lunch On A Leaf
When you see that the dining area is swarming with more people than the concert hall you just left, don’t be confused. This is a common sight because we love food (who doesn’t?). There are groups of people who earmark specific sabha canteens to gorge on delicious elai saapadu every day of the December season. The most legendary is the Mountbatten Mani Iyer catering at Sri Parthasarathy Swami Sabha in Mylapore. Not only do you get to enjoy a finger-licking elaborate feast on the banana leaf, but also some quirky dishes like watermelon rasam and pink paniyaram. These dishes change every Marghazi season, so head there to find out what’s whacky this time.
Make Way For Aalapanai Afternoons
The post-lunch kutcheris are truly unique - the crowd is much smaller, and you can see the upcoming, young artistes. These concerts usually happen in mini halls of the big sabhas - so get your blanky and cosy up. Don’t worry about falling asleep after eating the best kesari or paayasam. With their thaka dhimi and selection of songs, these singers will keep you wide awake.
Hit The Jackpot
Getting tickets to these 7 pm concerts is next to reaching the moon, but book in advance because the chance to witness famous musicians like Sanjay Subrahmanyam, and Bombay Jayshree comes rarely. Get in your seat early to hear mamas and maamis speculate about the upcoming ragams, and kritis like their life depends on it. Once the lights are dimmed and the curtain rises, you are sure to be transported to another plane. These concerts mostly take place at Narada Gana Sabha, Hamsadhwani, and The Music Academy.
Feast For The Margazhi Soul
End the day by checking into iconic restaurants or messes right next to sabhas. If you’re at NGS, dine at New Woodlands Hotel. If you’re at Bharatiya Vidhya Bhavan, eat at Karpagambal Mess or Maami Mess. If you began with filter kaapi and ended with podi dosai or Pav Bhaji (yes, these restaurants dabble in a bit of North Indian food as well!), you know you're following the perfect Margazhi calendar!
